Sunday, August 25, 2019

Lightroom Adjustment Tools


The adjustment tools in Lightroom (Grad Filter, Radial Filter, and the Adjustment Brush) are useful in finishing your image. They can be used to help guide the eye through the image. We already know that light areas attract attention and bring them more to the forefront of the image, while dark areas recede. Plus bright warm colors tend to attract more attention.

The Adjustment tools have a lot of adjustments that can be made, from exposure, color temperature, sharpness, and contrast, to name a few. Each of the tools gives you different ways to make the adjustment. The Grad tool makes gradual changes and is used for more substantial portions of the image. The radial tool makes round or oval adjustments.  The brush tool lets you make fine detail adjustments along with considerable adjustments, and it is the most versatile tool.



You can use the grad filter to add color to the top of the image as in the image above. Using the grad filter, I made the upper portion of the image warmer and slightly brighter, so that your eye travels along the river up to the sky. I also used the adjustment brush to lighten some of the rocks to create a pathway through the image.








In the above image, I am showing how the radial tool affects the image. I am using the tool to darken the out edges of the image; the red color is showing the mask that this tool creates and shows the area it will change. In this image, I also used the Grad filter to warm up the upper portion of the image. Then used the adjustment brush to lighten some of the deep shadow areas and to create a path to follow the water and to guide your eye back to the left side of the image. 

 So as you can see, the adjustment tools let you make some minor and at times significant adjustment to specific areas of an image. These adjustments help you to guide the viewer through the image.

Jeffrey Klug has been a professional photographer for 38 years. He went to Milwaukee Area Technical College where he earned an Associate degree in Photography and Photo Electronics Technology. He is an award-winning photographer through many International Exhibitions (see http://www.jrklug.com/awards/ for a look at his award photos).

In 1981 Jeffrey opened his camera store, “Klug’s Photo World,” which included a photo lab and studio for portraits and commercial photography. In 1992 he relocated his studio and photo lab to Hubertus, specializing in architectural photography, commercial photography, portraits, fine art photography, and aerial photography. In 2001 he was the official photographer for the inauguration of Governor Scott McCallum and Lt. Governor Margaret Farrow. 

Jeffrey has taught classes in photography, Adobe Photoshop, and Lightroom at the UW-Waukesha and Washington County, Moraine Park Technical College, South Western Michigan Camera Clubs Council (SWMCCC), CAP’s School for Chicago Area Camera Clubs Association (CACCA) and at Wisconsin Area Camera Clubs Organization (WACCO). He was president, program chair, competition chair, and treasurer of the Wisconsin Area Camera Clubs Organization; treasurer and program director for the Wisconsin Imaging and Photographic Association (WIPA); program co-chair and past president of the Menomonee Falls Camera Club. In 2018 he was honored with the Ashbrook Award for Digital Instruction by the Photographic Society of America. 


Jeffrey currently specializes in Fine Art Photography with an emphasis on Landscape, Architecture, and Racing. He also teaches photography, Lightroom, and Photoshop. See his website www.klugsphotoworld.com for images and more information.

Jeffrey Klug
Klug’s Photo World

4298 Hwy. 167
PO Box 376
Hubertus, WI  53033
262 893-3500

kpw1255@gmail.com


Jeffrey Klug will be teaching "Lightroom Adjustments Tools" on Saturday, November 23rd. 

To see the CAPS home page go to:    https://www.caccaphoto.org/caps/caps_home.php 

To register for CAPS go to: https://cacca.regfox.com/caps-2019




Sunday, August 18, 2019

"Taking the Mystery Out of Using Filters" by Michael Kirkland


My love for long exposure photography occurred over time (no pun intended) as I am always seeking ways to improve or modify my images.   Once you become grounded in your knowledge and understanding of achieving proper exposures, why not get out of your comfort zone and try new techniques.  I have found that using longer exposures, can minimize, or even remove distracting elements that compete with the main subject in your image.  In many situations, images will start to take on a minimalist look to them.

During my presentation, I will begin by reviewing some of the different techniques that use longer shutter speed to create dramatic or creative effects.  Some techniques, you have probably already applied while others may just be a new way of looking at your subject.  In addition to your tripod, you will find that you already have all of the equipment inside your camera bag to get started exploring the possibilities.

Have ever seen a photographer placing various types and shapes of filters on the front of their lens and wondered why they bother? In the next section, I will take the mystery out of using filters while explaining the difference in Neutral Density (ND) filters, Graduated Neutral Density (GND) filters, Variable Neutral Density filters and Polarizers.



I will review the necessary accessories needed, the set-up, and recommend steps to apply filters and achieving sharp images.  You’ll hear me offer tips on using filters and provide warnings for using and protecting your filters.   I will also offer my recommendations on the type of filters that I prefer and why.


During my presentation, I will show before and after images using filters. This will allow you to see the affects and help you understand when best to apply a filter and why.  You’ll hear me discuss the alternative to using filters and point out when and why they are not as effective.





At the end of my presentation, you will be armed with enough information to know how and when to create longer exposure images.  Overall you will become familiar with another option for capturing your subject, learn to solve exposure and depth of field issues while enhancing your creativity.







Michael Kirkland began his photography career in Buffalo NY, before moving to Chicago to attend Columbia College, where he earned his bachelors degree in photography.

Although he enjoys traveling to various destinations in the US and to other countries, he enjoys creating local projects to improve his skills and challenge himself to get out his comfort zone with his photography. 

Michael’s projects have included long exposure and architecture photography, silhouettes in Chicago, ballet dancers, beauty photography and macro water-drop photography.

Using filters for long exposures has forced him to slow down and envision the results that he is looking to achieve.

His images can be seen at his website mjkirkland.com  or on instagram @mjkirklandimages, @silhouetteschicago or @sculpting_water


Michael will be teaching on "Long Exposure Photography" on Saturday, November 23rd.

To see the CAPS home page go to:  https://www.caccaphoto.org/caps/caps_home.php 

To register for CAPS go to:  https://cacca.regfox.com/caps-2019

Saturday, August 10, 2019

5 Tips That Will Instantly Improve Your Wildlife Photography


 CAPS- Chicago Area Photographic School is coming up November 23rd and 24th, 2019.  To whet your appetite, we are going to occasionally do some blog posts by our speakers.  Our first post is by one of our main speakers, Steve Perry.

"5 Tips That Will Instantly Improve Your Wildlife Photography"

When it comes to wildlife photography, there's an overwhelming number of tips and tricks that promise to help you capture more compelling imagery. However, in my experience as both a professional wildlife photographer and a workshop instructor, I've discovered that following just five fundamental techniques can ratchet your wildlife photography to the next level. These tips are all incredibly simple - and perhaps even obvious - but the impact they have on your images is often nothing short of profound. 

Let's jump in.

Tip #1 - Get To Eye Level

If I had a dime for every time I saw a photographer pointing their lens down on some poor, unsuspecting animal, I'd finally be able to snag that new 800 mm lens I've been drooling over!

The thing is, the best wildlife photos draw the viewer into the animal's life - and shooting eye level gives you an express ticket to that world. It creates a sense of intimacy and involvement that you usually can't get when the lens is pointing downward. 

Not only does it create a connection with your subject, but It also offers a unique perspective. In my experience, the majority of photographers tend to trade getting down to the animal's height in exchange for a comfortable standing position. This means low, eye-level shots are the exception rather than the rule. 





Plus, shooting low can often "stack up" the foreground and background, leading to a more isolated-looking subject. 



So, don't be afraid to drop low when the opportunity is right - you'll be surprised just how good things can get! 

Tip # 2 - Watch Your Background

One phrase my workshop participants hear repeatedly is, "Watch your background!"

A good, clean background that complements - and doesn't compete with - my subject is as important to me as the animal itself. Often when a photographer spots an animal, their instinct is to start shooting from the exact spot where they first set eyes on it. On the other hand, the best wildlife photographers note the animal's location and then maneuver around to get the best possible background. 




Clean, green backgrounds are always a crowd-pleaser, as are nice tones of brown - or a combination of both. Avoid busy backgrounds and keep any distractions to a minimum as well.



Also, avoid white "patches" of highlights in your images since our eyes are attracted to the brightest area of the photo first. I avoid white patches of sky, white trees/branches in the background, hot spots on reflective leaves, and other highlights as much as possible. Keep the background clean and your subject will pop!




Tip # 3 - Focus On The Eyes

When it comes to getting a sharp wildlife photo, you normally only have one criteria - sharp eyes. If the eyes are sharp, the rest is usually just fine. Also, when in doubt, focus on the eye closest to the camera. 




When people first set their lens on wildlife subjects, they often plop the AF point anywhere on the critter and fire away. This often results in eyes that aren’t in critical focus. Instead, compose your image first, then move your AF point to the animal's eye. Focus on the eye and fire away in short bursts (hint - you often discover that some of the frames in that burst are just a touch sharper than others).

Tip # 4 Don't Stop During The Good Stuff!

Is there something awesome happening in your viewfinder? Then don't stop shooting!

I can't tell you the number of times I see people only take a fraction of the action when it lasts for more than a couple seconds or so. If the camera is willing to keep shooting during prolonged action sequences, then don't let up – you never know what you'll get. I've shot upwards of 150 images without coming up for air during prolonged action sequences and am ALWAYS happy I did! The image below was #80 during a long 12 FPS burst while this little cub bounced all around its mom.




Sure, you may feel like you're shooting an excessive number of frames (and the quizzical looks from nearby spectators may seem to re-enforce this), but pixels are free and your shutter doesn't need a coffee break. Keep firing at great action until it's done – make your buffer beg for mercy when needed!




(PS – This doesn't mean to go crazy every time either! Controlled bursts are the key to successful wildlife photography – long or short.)


Tip # 5 - Shoot In Great Conditions

Wanna know one of the secrets to great wildlife photography? 

An ordinary subject in extraordinary conditions and great light will beat out an extraordinary subject in poor conditions and lousy light. And, of course, the pinnacle is an extraordinary subject in great light and perfect conditions!




The reason I bring this up is simple – I see so many photographers shooting in poor light and/or poor conditions (i.e. bad background/foreground, terrible scene, etc.) and wondering why they aren't getting better images.

The brutal truth is that the best images of ANY subject happen when that subject is in a great location in great light. So, the advice here is twofold:

First, favor great light. I know, it happens at the most inconvenient times of day (I hate dragging myself out of bed too), but that first light of morning and last light of day are where you tend to find extraordinary images hanging around. Sure, sometimes you can't hit it perfectly (nothing more frustrating than gorgeous light without a subject to stick in it), but shooting within that first hour and a half after sunrise or before sunset often works out well.

Second, favor great areas. No matter how good a subject and light, if it's not in a great location, it's never going to be a great shot. Sure, you may discover a handsome bear in sunset light, but if you're shooting at the city dump, no one will beg you to hang it on their wall.




I'd rather have an ordinary subject in great light and in a great setting than an extraordinary subject in terrible light and a rotten setting. I can't use the latter, but I can certainly use the former.

So, there you have it. And yes, I know you have probably heard of at least a couple of these before, but are you really applying them in the field (be honest)? If not, practice these principals the next time you’re out. I think you’ll enjoy the results.

Steve will be speaking on Sunday, November 24th on "Lessons from the Field:  A Wildlife Photographer's Experience."  He  will discuss the real-world techniques he uses each time he’s in the field to capture his wildlife imagery. Photograph by photograph, he will paint the picture of the scene, what drew him to it, the challenges it presented, and how he handled them. He’ll not only discuss the artistic elements, but he’ll also break down the complex technical aspects of wildlife photography and make them easy to understand. Steve will also cover the keys to tackling difficult situations and how you can leverage those challenges to your advantage to create  unique and compelling photographs.  

Steve is an award-winning photographer.  His images embrace the natural world and its occupants with stunning visual results.  He divides his time between creating images, leading photo workshops, making You-Tube videos, and sharing his knowledge in his daily blog with how-to and practical tips.  He was the recent recipient of a special recognition award for his creative accomplishments and his dedication to the art of photography.

Steve's Website:  Website:  https://backcountrygallery.com/

CAPS Website:  https://www.caccaphoto.org/caps/caps_home.php

To register for CAPS go to:  https://cacca.regfox.com/caps-2019


Monday, November 13, 2017

Posts from 2017 CAPS

The following are all blog posts from our 2017 CAPS.  Feel Free to read and enjoy.

"Night Photography" by John Williams

I find night photography to be a very fun way to discover whole new ways of looking at the world through our cameras and it presents photographers with such a great opportunity to capture fantastic images.  Just as with all image making; composition, light, color, contrast, texture and dynamic range are all differentiators.  This is indeed true during the day, but it can really make a huge difference at night. If you want to expand your image palette, there’s probably no better way to do it than with night and low light photography.  No need to travel to distant exotic locations because when the lights are turned on, streets, buildings, bridges and attractions take on a whole new look, what often may be mundane during the day can become fantastic subjects at night.

There are many aspects to night and low light photography!  Getting the right exposure, color balance, obtaining sharp focus, dealing with ultra-wide dynamic range and even seeing your compositions. We’re going to take on this exciting photography subject and dig into several of these challenges in our CAPS Night & Low Light Photography session.

Let’s discuss one aspect of night photography that’s a really interesting phenomenon which can occur when you have a point of light.  This is called Star Effects, or Starbursts we can also include Sun Flares and Sun Stars. The more you know about how these are created, the more you can incorporate them into your photography by intention.
Starbursts are caused by diffraction in the camera lens.  The effect is magnified when you have a point source of light in your image frame, like a spot light, street light, sun, etc.  When light waves pass by an object, especially like the diaphragm in a lens, this causes the light waves to alter their direction and spreads the wave pattern.  This occurs not only with light, but also with sound waves and water as well.

In photography, diffraction occurs differently depending on the size of the aperture opening.  Normally more diffraction is thought to be a bad thing in photography because it is associated with softening the focus of an image.  But, it is because of this diffraction on distant single-point light sources that we get a starburst effect, especially noticeable in night photography.
 
The design of your lens aperture diaphragm and the aperture setting you select has a profound impact on the starburst effect.  You should also know that differing lenses, even within the same brand, let alone altering brands, will have vastly different characteristics to the look of this effect.  If the aperture blades form a perfect circle, you will not get the starburst effect.  Instead, you will have distant highlights producing Airy Discs on your image which may be so small, you may not even see them.

Here are some tips to get you started with Starburst effects in night photography:

Tip 1:  Test and practice starburst effects at home with your lenses.  Use a flashlight to create the distant point source of light.  Set up your camera on a tripod so you can alter your aperture and change your shutter speed to accomplish the correct exposure.  Take a series of pictures with each lens, using f/8.0, 11, 16 and 22.  You will learn very quickly just how differently your lenses create the starburst effect and just how different the effect looks.  Depending on the number of aperture blades, you will see various numbers of points of light. The result of this process will help you to really know your lenses for the ideal starburst effect.

Tip 2:  Use smaller apertures to create more defined points of light. Usually that would mean a minimum of f/11 if not f/16 or f/22.  It’s strange how this works, but technically, if you have an even number of aperture blades, you will get that many points of light.  If you have an odd number of aperture blades, you will get twice the number of points of light.  So, 6 Blades equals 6 spikes of light, but 7 Blades will equal 14 spikes.

Tip 3:  Beware of filters!  Filters over the front of your lens can and usually do cause flare from point light sources.  They can also cause you to not achieve the starburst effect you are looking for.  Try removing any UV or other glass in front of the front element of your lens and you should achieve a much better result.

Tip 4:  Get the right exposure.  Exposure affects the intensity of the starburst effect.  The longer the exposure, the more star effect you will see.  The brighter the highlights in a photo and depending on how much contrast is in the scene will all influence how much you will see the starburst effect.

Tip 5:  Subject to lens distance will influence how large the starburst effect appears.  Often, if the point source of light is up against an object partially blocking it, like a building or bridge, or even the sun at the horizon, this will make the starburst effect more pronounced. Of course, the relative size and brightness of the point source as well as the quality of light overall will have an effect.  Nothing takes out a starburst effect quicker than a bunch of haze, smoke or fog.

John Williams is a passionate and accomplished photographer living in Lake County and a longtime member of the Lake County Camera Club and CACCA community. Modern digital photography presents the perfect intersection of technology and art that John has found totally engaging with his technically inclined interests.  While John enjoys a wide variety of photographic styles and subjects, his favorites include Architectural, Landscapes, Cityscapes, Travel and Night photography. 


John will be presenting "Night and Low Light Photography"  at CAPS-Chicago Area Photography School on Sunday, November 19th.

To see the entire schedule of classes go to: caps.caccaweb.com or click here:  Home

To register go to:   Chicago Area Photographic School (CAPS) 2017 | Summary | powered by RegOnline




Wednesday, November 8, 2017

"Photography 101: A look at Backgrounds" by Mike Trahan

CAPS has many classes that dive deep into a specific subject. But what if you’re a relatively novice photographer or someone who has more experience but isn’t sure if you have all the essential basics mastered yet? If you fall into those categories, then this class is for you.

We’ll pick out the key practical essentials you need to know to consistently take better pictures. We’ll only get technical where we really have to and only where it matters to you.

Here’s a general outline of what we’ll discuss:
n  Some Fundamentals
         Telling a story / capturing the mood
         Types and quality of light
         Composition
n  Practical Technical Stuff You Need
n  Gear – Lots of Choices

As Albert Einstein once said, we’ll try to make things as simple as they can be, but no simpler. Let’s take a look at one of the specific topics we’ll cover in the class.

Backgrounds

After you’ve picked your main subject, you need to really pay attention to the background. Often we’re so focused on our subject, we forget all about the background. You want to make sure that it doesn’t detract from your subject, clutter the picture for your viewer, or draw their eyes away inappropriately. And sometimes the background can enhance your subject and help tell your story.

So look at these pictures: 


In the first one, there are elements in the background on the left and in the upper right corner that add no value but do add distraction. Plus the one in the upper right is brighter as well and your eyes go naturally to bright areas drawing them away from the subject. In the second picture, changing where we stood eliminated those distractions and is clearly better. Now if my granddaughter would only smile.

Here’s another example where just changing where we held the camera and getting down low made a dramatic difference in the photograph:


And another similar example where getting closer and a little  lower had the same effect:



 
















So your first thought on backgrounds needs to be: SIMPLIFY. Remove distractions where you can.

But a background doesn’t need to be plain or empty. It can add to the picture immensely also. In this next example, we were in a King Penguin colony of over 200,000 birds on South Georgia Island near the Antarctic. I wanted to show an intimate scene of parent birds and their chicks (the brown ones), but also convey a sense of the vast number of birds surrounding them. I hiked to a low ridge where I thought I could isolate a few birds on the back side of the ridge but with a large separation from the other birds giving me the ability to blur them with a lower depth of field. And, viola, the picture I wanted! It reminds me of my kids saying but Dad, one of them did it.


 We’ll cover backgrounds with a few more examples in the class as well as the other key factors you need to know to take better pictures, no matter where and no matter what. See you at CAPS!


Mike Trahan enjoys shooting a wide variety of photos with a special emphasis on nature and birds.  You can check them out at Zenfolio | Michael (Mike) Trahan photos. He's won many honors including the first Stewards of the Upper Mississippi Bald Eagle photo contest, first place winner in the Ottawa National Forest photo contest, and Lake County grand prize winner with a picture used on four 20' x 50' billboards along the expressways.  Mike was the recipient of the 2015 CACCA Kohout award for nature photography teaching.  What really matters though is that he really enjoys photography, sharing what he's learned with you, and having fun doing it.

Mike will be presenting "Photography 101: Taking Better Pictures" at CAPS- Chicago Area Photography School on Sunday, November 19th.


To see the entire schedule of classes go to: caps.caccaweb.com or click here:  Home

To register go to:   Chicago Area Photographic School (CAPS) 2017 | Summary | powered by RegOnline



Friday, November 3, 2017

"Hidden Gems of Chicago" with Chris Smith

In the Chicago suburbs we live near one of the most architecturally interesting cities in the world. There are photographic subjects around every corner, but they’re not always easy to find!

In my presentation, Hidden Gems of Chicago, I’ll show you my favorite little-known photo locations in Chicago. We’ll go beyond The Bean, Buckingham Fountain and the Chicago Skyline to discover my favorite interiors, vantage points and out-of-the-way architecture.





Along the way, you’ll get tips for shooting interiors, photographing the city at night, post-processing your Chicago images and how to create unique images in these locations.


This year I completely rewrote The Photographer’s Guide to Chicago. You can download the 2nd edition of the ebook at outofchicago.com/ebooks.


Chris Smith is the founder of Out of Chicago Photography. Out of Chicago runs their annual photography conference every June. Chris is the author of The Photographer’s Guide to Chicago and host of the Out of Chicago Podcast. 
You can follow Chris Smith's photography adventures at outofchicago.com  Photography Online Courses, Workshops, Conferences, Outings | Out of Chicago

Chris will be presenting "Hidden Gems of Chicago" at CAPS- Chicago Area Photography School on Saturday, November 18th.

To see the entire schedule of  CAPS-Chicago Area Photography School classes go to: caps.caccaweb.com or click here:  Home

To register go to:  Chicago Area Photographic School (CAPS) 2017 | Summary | powered by RegOnline